The first step to making earrings with bezel set stones is to find how much material you need for your bezel and then determine how high you need the bezel to be. To find how much metal you need for the bezel you need to find the height and circumference of the stone. My stone’s height was 4.5mm and the circumference was 37.68mm, so I needed to cut a strip of metal for the bezel a little bit bigger so after it is filed the size will be right. Once you have the amount of metal you need, you form the bezel using a bezel mandrel to get it to the shape you need. After it is formed you solder it together just like you would solder a ring.
Once the bezel has been formed and soldered together you need to sand it down so it fits the stones height perfectly. Making sure it is high enough to hold to stone but low enough so you can see a majority of it. Next you drop the stone in from the top of the bezel to make sure it fits.
After the bezel is finished it is time to make the backing piece to the size and shape that you would like. The bezel will then be soldered on to the backing piece to hold the stone in place. You will want to leave enough room on the outside of the bezel for texturing.
When you solder these two pieces together you must be sure that both sides are clean to be sure that the solder is going to flow all the way around the piece. Then you will want to flux the side of the backing piece that you want the bezel to be attached to, the bezel itself and the solder. For this part of the earring you will want to use medium solder so you are sure not to open up the solder seam that is on the bezel itself or melt any of the silver.
The next step is to make and attach the tube set stone. To set the stone in the tubing you first need to find which tubing the stone is the closest to fitting into, then you drill out a shelf in the tubing with the flex shaft for the stone to sit on. The stone must sit low enough so it doesn’t fall out and high enough so you are able to see most of it. Then you set the stone in the tubing using a burnisher and holding the stone in the flex shaft. Once the stone is in place and sanded down to fit on the side of the piece, you attach the tubing to the side of the earrings. To do this you need to use easy solder and heat from the back of the earring to not melt the bezel on the front.
After the stone is attached on the side and the earring has the finish you want, you set the bigger stone in the center. This stone is set using a bezel pusher and a burnisher. Once this stone is set it is time to make ear wires. The ear wires are made by balling the end of the wire then bending them with pliers so the earring doesn’t fall off and doesn’t hang too low.
The final step is to put the ear wires through the earrings, then they are complete!