First you must pick what size you need in order to know how much metal to use for the band. For my ring I needed a size 5 so that is 16.10 mm of metal.Then you need to form the band around a ring mandrel and solder the ring together once you know the size is right. After the band is made that is when you finish forming it with a hammer on a mandrel, you can also add a texture using either a hammer or stamping tools.
Next is the bezel for the stone. To find how much metal you need for the bezel you need to find the height and circumference of the stone. My stone’s height was 4.5mm and the circumference was 37.68mm, so I needed to cut a strip of metal for the bezel an amount larger so after it is filed the size will be right. Once you have the amount of metal you need, you form the bezel using a bezel mandrel to get it to the shape you need. After it is formed you solder it together just like the ring.
Once you are certain that the bezel fits your stone’s shape you now pick a backing piece for the bezel, that will also be soldered together. After it is attached to your bezel you will want to decide what shape to leave around the bezel for a shadow line then cut it with a jewelers saw.
After the bezel is made and is filed or textured it is ready to be soldered on to the ring. Before you attach the two pieces the ring must be filed down flatter in the spot where you would like the bezel to sit. When soldering the bezel to the ring you must place solder on either sides of the band and heat from the top.
Once the bezel and the band are attached it is time to set the stone. When setting the stone you need to use the grs to hold the ring, to allow the ring to move in the direction you want. A series of tools is needed to set the stone, first a bezel pusher, then a burnisher to add a finish to the bezel.
Then when the stone is set you will want to add a final finish to the ring with the buffing wheel. After this step you will have a finished ring!